Matsumoto water park

Wave pool

Perfect rainy day entertainment

LaLa Matsumoto is a great place to spend a lazy rainy day any time of the year. I decided to go on a long weekend which I knew would add to the experience. Generally I don’t particularly enjoy crowds however sometimes I find that by throwing a couple of thousand people into a confined area will create a lot of funny moments. Just add water.  A tip here is to buy a floating ring to get the full Japanese pool time effect. Just to make things easier for you there are compressors at the entrance to inflate them. Size limit on your floating device is 105cm. I liked the “Lazy River” pool which takes you around the whole pool area on a current. The slides are fun but will obviously have a big line on the busy days. They crank up the swell every hour or so in the wave pool which pulls in the crowds. This is where it gets a little crazy with so many people bouncing off each other, lots of laughing and kids screaming.  Lala is located on the northern side of Matsumoto and just 1 hour drive from Hakuba.

Open 9am to 10pm (closed Tuesdays)

Website here

Not quite this bad but I had seen this footage before and it reminded me of it while I was being washed around.

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Happo Bijin Raman

Hakuba restaurants

Fast food, Japan style

If you have some time waiting at the Happo Bus Terminal and feeling a bit peckish then try out this little Ramen restaurant for a good quick feed.  Ramen noodles are served up in a big bowl of soup with some bamboo sprouts and leek as a standard.  I can recommend getting the onsen egg and chashu pork with the soup as well and if you are really hungry then a serve of gyoza (minced pork dumplings) is the perfect match. They are located across the road and left from the Happo Bus Terminal next to the foot onsen and are open 11am until 9 pm daily.

Hakuba menu

Everything is good here

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Hakuba water jump

The Hakuba water jump is a great place to hone your big air skills out of the snow season. Professional athletes have been using water jumps since 1978 for their off season training and is now an integral part of aerial skiing. Coaches will train their athletes on water jumps prior to performing a trick on the snow due to less impact on the water landing. It still can be quite brutal especially off the big jump so helmets and life vests are compulsory and wrist, knee and elbow guards are recommended. You can rent all of the equipment required on site. As there are a number of different levels of jumps it is a great place to take the children and instruction is available.

The entrance of the jump is at the north west end of Aokiko Lake

Open 25th May until the 20th October

There is more info on their website here.

 

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Heli ski in Hakuba

hakuba-heli

Heli skiing in Hakuba

During March and April each year there is a helicopter service running at the Tsugaike Resort that will take you right up into the Hakuba backcountry. This is a great way to be introduced into what is on offer here in the Japan Alps. It can cater for intermediate skiers and snowboarders depending on the snow conditions. If there has been a lot of recent snow then I would consider it more for advanced sliders. Kids are also welcome to join in on the fun.  It starts off with a gondie ride up to the mid station (370 Yen).

Hakuba Heli

Get up there early to beat the crowds

From there you register your name. Depending on the amount of people, you may be asked to wait before your name is called out and then you pay and head just outside to the heli pad. Adults are 14000 yen and children are 12500.

Heli-hakuba

Stay low and hang onto your hats when this thing lands

You will be directed where to stand by the ground crew. The heli has a 9 minute turn around so you won’t be waiting long for the next one to come.

Tsugaike-Hakuba

Amazing views from above the resort.

Get your camera out for some spectacular shots of the surrounding mountains.

Norikura-Hakuba

Norikura mountain in the background.

The landing is smooth and you will be assisted out of the heli and asked to crouch down to the side before the helicopter takes off again. The ground crew will get all of your ski equipment from the storage cage. There is a ski patrol there to point you in the right direction along with flags that are easily seen for the journey down. There is a 15 minute walk to the trail mark where you can either decide to hike to the top of Norikura or take the easy way back down to the resort.

Hakuba-BC

The views are spectacular on the way up to the peak

I decided to take the extra time to hike up to the top (20-30 minutes). As with any trip like this please be prepared for the weather to change very suddenly. Always wear warm clothes and head back to the resort if you do see the conditions worsening. The track had been boot packed up along with a seperate skinning track which made it reasonably easy to ascend.  The views along the way are breathtaking. On this day there was some low cloud on the horizon however on a clear day you can actually see the Japan Sea where the above photo is taken.

Hakuba-raicho

Raicho is the prefectural bird for Nagano, Gifu and Toyama

The top is a plateau with a rock formation to crown your journey upon. It was well worth the trip for me just to spot the rare Raicho bird (rock ptarmigan).

Hakuba-views

A great day trip to the Hakuba BC

I spent half an hour admiring the area at the top and take in some of the most spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and the Hakuba Valley. I brought up a lunch pack along with a warm drink in my flask and I could sit and relax and reflect on the season past. It’s not quite over yet as far as the snow goes however the hard part is done and it’s time to really enjoy the spring skiing.

Hakuba-picnic

The traverse area is a great spot to have a picnic before jumping on your skis

It should be noted that the top section which I just climbed can be unstable and great care should be taken when dropping in. It should be considered as proper backcountry terrain. With some nice fresh tracks to be laid for a few hundred meters I am taken back down to the flat fields which I am able to traverse along before I reach the start of the flagged area again. It is from here that those who chose not to pursue the climb can make their way back down to the resort. There are some nice turns to be had here with some open trees, little gullies and mellow pitch for everyone to enjoy. It is a long run and although I did not set my stopwatch it is probably a half hour trip from top to bottom.

Foot-onsen

The foot onsen at the base of Tsugaike

The foot onsen is located in the perfect spot just near the  gondola base station and was well received on this day.

The heli skiing at Tsugaike should not be seen in the traditional sense of the term where helicopters are used to drop off and pick up in the backcountry such as in Alaska, Canada or New Zealand. It is basically a sightseeing trip in a helicopter and then you are dropped off into a beautiful area of the Hakuba Valley and get to ski and snowboard back into the resort. It is a great way to spend a sunny day here in spring. The last couple of years we have had a small heli operation running to some extent around Cortina and they are trying to develop this business into a full on heliski tour that will open up some world class terrain. Here’s hoping that can come to fruition in the next couple of years.

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Hakuba spring time backcountry

It’s a great time of year when the temperatures are a little warmer but there is still mountains of terrain to ski and ride here in Hakuba. With a dusting of snow overnight and the forecast of a sunny day I decided that it’s a good morning to head out and explore the area above Happo One. I took the lifts to the top and proceeded to boot it up for about 20 minutes to the hut. There was still some cloud around and as always I was prepared to take the conservative approach if need be and hike back down the way I came.

Hakuba

Above the clouds at Happo One

As I got higher the clouds started to open up a little for a moment at a time but then another would blow in. As I was taking a break with a warm drink from my flask and a chocolate bar there was an instant moment when the cloud just dispersed.

#Hakuba

Amazing views at the top of Happo

This gave me the opening I required to drop in. The conditions were icy at the top however 100 meters in I was able to find some wind blown powder. It was a nice easy run down however there is still a need to beware of the hazards of being out in the backcountry.

Hakuba avi

Avalanches are a constant threat in the BC here so be aware.

Conditions were a little icy all the way down and I thought I may have been going to get my feet wet at the bottom however there is still snow bridges over the river. A precarious dash over at this time of year with the sound of running water just under you.

snow bridge

Don’t stop to admire the view when crossing the river

I enjoy stopping often to take in the spectacular views for the whole journey down.

Happo north face

The Happo north face valley

A great day to be enjoying this wonderful part of the world.

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Wine in Hakuba

Hakuba

Charles knows exactly where to go for the best of everything in Hakuba.

Charles Lawrence has been sliding around Hakuba for 15 years now and has a lot of knowledge of the mountains and basically anything to do with Hakuba.  A great resource for anyone coming into town and wanting to know about the history, the mountains and the gastronomic delights that Hakuba has to offer. This is the best information center you could ask for. A chair at his new bar, drinking some of the finest wines available in Japan whilst picking up all the best tips about Hakuba is a must for the start of any holiday here. Located south on 4th street in Echoland and open at 5pm till late everyday, please feel free to drop in.

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Village Wine Bar

Formerly known as Vendimia Wine Bar

 

Welcome to Village wine bar.  Sit back, relax, and explore the wonderful world of wine.  I’ve carefully constructed a list that offers you, the wine lover, a chance to travel the various wine regions of the world.  While I don’t represent each region of every country, I have made an effort to bring you wines that excite your senses and inspire the mind.  I’m glad you decided to drop in and sit a spell.

Sincerely,

c. Lawrence

aka charles

The House List

Our list is ever evolving.  we offer you the opportunity to sample some rare treats and hidden gems from around the world of fine wine from vignerons who care about what they’re making and what you’re drinking, so sit back and sip some of the good stuff. Buy the glass (BTG) or Buy the bottle, you’re palate will be pleased!

 

Bubbles

VWB Proprietary Sparkler            BTG¥800/bottle ¥3800

Jed Blanc de Blancs Mendoza Argentina

BTG¥1200/bottle ¥5000

 

Whites

VWB Proprietary Kiwi Savvy’11

BTG¥700/bottle ¥2800

 

Annie’s Lane Clare Valley Riesling ‘11

BTG ¥1100/bottle ¥4700

 

Main Divide Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ‘11

BTG¥1400/bottle ¥6300

 

Palliser Estate “Pencarrow” Chardonnay ‘11

BTG¥1300/bottle ¥5400

 

Tahbilk Marsanne ‘09

BTG¥1200/bottle ¥5000

 

Reds

VWB Proprietary S. Australia Shiraz’11

BTG ¥700/bottle ¥2800

 

Coastline Paso Robles California Merlot’07

BTG¥800/bottle ¥3800

 

Coastline Paso Robles California Cab’07

BTG¥800/bottle ¥3800

 

Bill Easton House “H” California Red’07

BTG ¥900/bottle ¥4200

 

Koyle Reserve Chilean Syrah’10

BTG¥1200/bottle ¥4800

 

District 7 Monterey California Pinot Noir’09

BTG¥1500/Bottle ¥6500

 

Ask about BTG Special Selections

 

 

 

 

 

The List Exceptional©

 

The List Especiale’

To keep things interesting we’ve decided to offer you vinous imbibe might not have been able to experience thus far in your times of fine wines.  For the first phase, we’re traveling the U.S. West Coast.  Do rest assured that while you might not be familiar with the labels, you will most definitely find a wine that excites your palate.  Never forget, Flavor Favors the Brave!

Oregon White Wines

From the state’s cool climates, these wines express racy liveliness, with vitality, tension, and gravity.

Elk Cove Estate Riesling ‘06                        ¥4800

Penner-Ash Riesling ‘07                                   ¥6500

Chehalem INOX Chardonnay ‘06                   ¥5500

Chehalem INOX Chardonnay ‘07                   ¥5000

A to Z Chardonnay ‘06                                       ¥4600

A to Z Chardonnay 2007                                   ¥4400

California White Wines

Take a tour of the GoldenState and experience the style and beauty of its myriad regions and cultivars.

NapaValley

Souverain Sauvignon Blanc ‘06                          ¥4700

Hess Su’Skol Vineyard Chardonnay ‘06        ¥6500

Hendry Barrel-Ferm Chardonnay ’05            ¥8400

Made by a crusty old codger who is also designs Cyclotrons

RussianRiverValleySonomaCounty

PorterCreek Viognier ’06                                         ¥6500

Porter Creek George’s Hill Chardonnay ’05       ¥8200

Winemaker Alex Davis is a genius.  The wines are stunning.

Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard Chardonnay ’98      ¥19000

Perfectly aged, filled with joy and ready to please you.

Other AVA’s (American Viticulture Areas)

Il Cuore Chardonnay ’07 Mendocino county                ¥4100

Stolpman “The L’Avion ’05 Santa BarbaraCounty ¥9400

This Roussanne is rich, velvety, and utterly satisfying.

Varner Home Block Chardonnay ’10                        ¥11000

I discovered Varner, had’em imported, & these are all that’s left!

Vin Rouge

Like the whites, these reds hail from the States, almost exclusively showcasing California’s vast and varied climates, but with one outstanding Oregon Pinot.  These Grand Vins faithfully express the GoldenState’s terrific terroirs and cultivars as crafted by some of the most talented vignerons in the world. All wines categorized by Grape. Enjoy!

Pinot Noir

Sometimes criticized for being too plump, when grown in cooler climes, like the Santa CruzMountains, RussianRiverValley, SonomaCoast, and Oregon, U.S. Pinots are mineral driven, with tension and complexity.

Francis Tannahill The Hermit Oregon ’05     ¥12500

Wild mushrooms, hints of forest, and gobs of goodness make this a hedonist’s delight.

Domaine de la Terre Rouge “Durate-Georgetown” Vineyard Sierra Foothills ¥7400

A fresh and pretty, even perfumed red raspberry and cherry fruit nose lightweight and utterly delicious flavors that possess good vibrancy and good if not special length on the sappy finish

Neely

The Bros. Jim & Bob Varner craft some of the States’ most sought after wines. Very rare expressions of single vineyard block pinots.

Hidden Block ’08 Santa Cruz Mts                                 ¥10500

Upper Picnic Block ’08 Santa Cruz Mts                      ¥10500

Upper Picnic Block ’09 Santa Cruz Mts                      ¥10500

Cabernet/Merlot/Blends

Cali is famous for its voluptuous cabs, Merlots and Bordeaux styled blends. Scrumptious stuff for sure, minus the Eucalyptus found is many Aussie examples.

THE GIRLS IN THE VINEYARD ’05 CAB                   ¥4800

LakeCounty fruit from sublime vintage. The Girls are the Vines.

Souverain Cab ’06                                                            ¥5000

Souverain merlot ’05                                                    ¥5000

These come from Sonoma’s warm AlexanderValley. Plush, Lush, full of sun and fun!

McKenzie-Mueller JAZZ ’06                                      ¥5200

44%Cabernet Franc/28%Cabernet Sauvignon/18%Malbec10% Merlot

This baby hits all the right notes and is heavenly hedonistic.

Hendry HRW Cab ’05                                                        ¥5700

The Cyclotron making Codger also crafts a classy cab from his lower NapaValley estate. Complex, sophisticated, and sexy.

*Not cali, but special nonetheless

d’Arenberg High Trellis Cabernet ’03            ¥9200

From McLaren Vale’s mad jester, Chester, comes this aged Aussie Cab that is so good, had to list it.  Like all the wines here, quantities limited.

 

Syrah/Blends

California’s take on what is known as “Shiraz” down under tends to less exuberantly fruity, with floral high tones, dark fruits all swathed in savory notes of smoke, bacon and herbs.

PorterCreek

Vigneron Alex Davis’ familial estate focuses on French-inspired wines from Californian terroir. His wines were “Natural” well before the term became fashionable. These are honest, humble, yet wickedly delicious wines.

Timber Vine Ranch ’00                                                    ¥9000

Timber Vine Ranch ’04                                                     ¥9400

Domaine de la Terre Rouge

From the red soils of El Dorado, Bill Easton builds solid, Southern Rhone-styled wines that entice, excite, and enthrall the palate.

Tete a Tete ’03 70%Mourvedre/19%Syrah/11%Grenache        ¥4550

Tete a Tete ’04 58%Mourvedre/25%Grenache/17%Syrah     ¥4550

Edmunds St. John

Stunningly unique wines from a truly individual winemaker, who says this: “Our wines may or may not receive the highest numerical ratings bestowed by the most popular wine journals. At the moment when the wine is in the glass, and the glass is placed before the taster, the numbers are meaningless; if I can offer someone a wine that is thrilling to smell, that is unforgettable to taste, that taster, being only human, cannot help but respond. If that response is forthcoming, I will have done my job”

Rocks & Gravel ‘03                                                           ¥4550

35%Grenache/35%Syrah/30%mourvedre ¥4550

The Shadow ’02 100% Syrah                                                 ¥5500

Exceedingly elegant Syrah that is N.Rhone in its finesse.

Hess Mendocino/Monterey Syrah ’06                ¥4550

Cool climate softness, aged to sumptuously sipping perfection!

Zinfandel

This is California’s signature grape, that ampelographers linked to Italy’s Primavera and traced its origin to Croatia. Big, Rich, and full, yet when made by thoughtful producers it Zings with Zin Zen!

PorterCreek Old Vines ’09                                      ¥8000

I helped make this. Added a splash of Carignane for floral lift. Sourced from 90 year old vines, this is Cali viticulture history in a bottle.

Hendry HRW                                                                          ¥4550

The Cyclotron making Codger also crafts this salacious Zin from his lower NapaValley estate. Big, Bold & Beautiful.

Odd Lot Cultivars

PorterCreek Angeli Vineyard Carignane              ¥6500

Sourced from 98 year old vines, this wine pleases the savage in all of us.

Wine Bites ¨

We’ve sourced some savory delights to serve as snacks to flavor your nights.

Fromage

One of the tested and traditional wine pairings is cheese, but matching the right cheese to a particular wine can be troublesome which why we suggest soft cheeses with whites and hard, semi-hard cheeses with reds.  Our selection of Artisanal cheeses from around the world will set your night right.

Rob Alexander’s Hakuba Goats’ Cheese

Rob’s goats, which he brought from France, graze the glorious Goryu slopes of summer producing a cheese that truly reflects its place of origin and the artesin who crafts it. Yummy stuff!

20grams ¥800

Queso de Oveja Romero

This cheese comes from the Santa Cruz Region  of Spain. Matured for approximately 12 months, this semi hard sheep’s milk cheese has a natural rind covered with blue grey moulds and rosemary. The flavor is sweet, spicy and herbaceous.

20grams ¥1000

Queso de Oveja Don Manuel

This cheese comes from the Santa Cruz Region of Spain. Matured for approximately 12 months, this semi hard Raw sheep’s milk cheese has an intense aroma and lengthy palate.

20grams ¥1100

Queso de Manchego Artesano Curado

To be a D.O. cheese, Manchego has to be made in the La Mancha region of Spain from sheep of the Manchego breed. Ours just so happens to be an Astesano 6 month Curado, a semi-firm cheese produced in small batches from raw milk. It has a slightly sweet, nutty flavor.

20grams ¥1000

Valdeon Azul

From Valdeon Spain, this not too spicy blue is a blend of cow and goat’s milk. Before aging, it is wrapped in sycamore leaves, giving it an earthy flavor, which offsets the tangy blue vein traits making a fantastically well-balanced taste.

20grams ¥1000

Terrine de Campagne

House made Nagano Pork terrine is rich, texturally divine and a perfect partner with

fine wine.

150gram slice ¥900

Or have it served as the “Dowgie Style ” Sandwhich. Grilled Terrine, Dijon, Onions, & Tomato, on French Bread.

¥1200

Spanish Ham

Something most foodies know and you’re about to discover is the beauty of Spanish Jamon.  Spain is world’s leader in producing and consuming ham.  That means some seriously succulent hams are created for us to enjoy with great wine.

Jamon Serrano

This is the “daily” ham of Spanish families.  Almost every home has a Serrano on the counter, ready for slicing.  Ours comes from the village of Burgos and is produced by Cas Alba who specializes in gourmet Jamon. While a bit pricier than standard Serrano, your mouth will treasure the juicy, moist and delicious experience.   These are truly artisanal treats that pair perfectly with a bottle of vivacious vino.

Air-cured Serrano   20 grams  ¥1400

Lush, soft, and luxurious.

Smoked Serrano    20 grams   ¥1400
Just a hint of smoke.

Iberico or Pata Negra

This is the pork of legend. This is the Jamon of dreams. The name Pata Negra refers to the black hoof of this unique breed that ranges the oak forests and fields of Extremadura in the south of Spain.  These pigs live an extremely natural existence in Extremadura, roaming the field and forests foraging for their preferred nosh, acorns.  This acorn rich diet is high in Oleic acid, the same stuff in olive oil, so while succulently sweet, the meat is also pretty darned heart healthy.  With a melting point of just 32°C, Iberico literally places your mouth in a trance. Our source for this treasured treat is producer Cardisan whose 36-month aged Jamon Bellota is proof of that the black hoof is best!

Sliced Bellota  20 grams ¥2000

The single most delicious ham in the world!

Sliced Bellota Chorizo   20 grams   ¥1000

Sweet red peppers wrapped in Iberico richness.

Sliced Bellota Salchichon   20 grams   ¥1000

Slightly spicy with bits of black pepper corns.

Other Edibles

Hummus                                                            ¥700

Manzanilla Olives                                    ¥400

Arbequino Olives                                      ¥400

Fruit/Dry Fruit                                          ¥500

Bread/Spanish EVO/Dukkah             ¥600

Nuts/Olives                                                  ¥500

Chocolate                                                     ¥500


© Our list is on a Rotational basis of extremely rare and limited wines. Apologies in advance if the wine you’re seeking has been sipped out. We’ll surely have something else just as good!

¨ Some foods maybe out of stock due to availability. Our apologies in advance for any inconvenience this may cause.  All Jamon served w/olives and EVO. ALL WINES SERVED IN RIEDEL STEMWARE. BTG=100ML POURS.

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Hakuba avi

Hakuba.avi

South face of Guryu – death trap.

Yesterday I was driving through the valley as the sun was rising and stopped to take some photos. I thought to myself what a perfect day to set up a camera in this spot focused on the above slope to watch it slide. The wind had been strong the previous afternoon and blowing all the new snow straight into this area. Last year we had a skier die in the same spot in very similar conditions although the story has it that he was looking for a safer line but the white out conditions had him disorientated. That day the whole lot slid and the person was eventually found ,passed away, 5 meters under the snow.  Yesterday a skier/snowboarder triggered an avalanche which almost took out another skier lower down the mountain. This whole area is very dangerous and should be avoided. Please consider others when looking at dropping into anything and please think of your family and how they would feel in the event that you died. Stay safe.

As a side note on this. I snowboarded this face in 2004 and observed a lot of avalanche debris at the base at that time along with large cracks in the face. It is a dangerous area and I do not recommend it for anyone. There is a crossover path lower down the valley so if an avalanche does occur  it could bury those who are actually trying to take a safer route. I know of one person who likes to big note himself saying that I am unaware of the dangers in this area. He is on my list of avoided businesses within the region for a number of reasons. For all backcountry tours in Hakuba please use the Evergreen Outdoor guys.

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Hakuba Blue Bird Powder Daze

The White Horse Happo Resort Guide, Nate Hart, has a new GoPro and he’s ready to use it. It was a perfect blue bird day on the 28th December 2012 to get things rolling. I think this day will be remembered as one of the best ever for many people with perfect snow conditions and temperatures staying cool to keep the snow blower dry.

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Avalanche Education Night

It’s on again this year. Every year a new group of young workers come to do a season in Hakuba and every year I worry about one of them not going home alive. The side country, slack country and back country are amazing here and something to be enjoyed. The problem is that there are dangers lurking everyday in the form of avalanches. I always give our staff a stern warning  at their induction and last year we decided to take it a bit further and run an Avi Awareness Night at the White Horse. Once again this year we will have the Fall Line avalanche education video and we will talk about the Hakuba mountains and what to expect with the snow pack and conditions. Please come and join us. Everyone is welcome.

When – 20th December

Where – White Horse Hotel in Echoland

Time – 5 pm

Cost – 500 yen includes a free drink

Check out Jeremy Jones’ website HERE for some great info with his “Red Flag”, articles. Great reading from someone who knows his stuff along with a first hand account of the risks in Hakuba.

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Cortina Hakuba bus

Cortina Hakuba

More buses to pow pow this season

Cortina is a little resort just north of the main resorts of Happo One and Hakuba47. It has now become a hotspot in Hakuba due to its free policy on tree skiing. There is some great areas to ski well spaced trees in deep powder. The area can get a lot more snow than the southern resorts depending on how the storm systems roll in. The 2011/12 season was an exceptional year for Cortina and as word spread the buses from the Happo information center filled quicker every powder day. This season they have put more on to get everyone up there earlier. For a better alternative stay with the White Horse Hotel or any similar establishment for private shuttles to all of the resorts.

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